2007 Subaru Forester STI

2007 Subaru Forester XT Converted to STI Specs and beyond

Build Info

• VF39
• STi TMIC
• STi header (i believe he switched an equal length header now)
• Catless uppipe
• Catted Invidia downpipe
• Nur Spec R catback (modified to fit Forester)
• Tuned by Clark Turner Tuning
• BC Coilovers
• Whiteline 24 mm F&R sway bars
• Whiteline front strut brace
• 18" wheels with Hankook RS-3 tires
• Legacy GT brakes, Stoptech rotors (cryo treated, cross-drilled), Hawk HP+ pads

See the full video overview

1992 CAMARO RS - THE CAMARO CHIMERA

THE STORY: 
It all started after the first Autocross, intro video below.

Being that it was the first time I drove the car very spiritedly, I began to hear a knocking sound at ever left and right hard turn. Since it was the first sign of trouble I've decided it also be the first upgrade. Ultimately other than the body of the car all the suspension components from the springs to the sway bars are the foundation of every car and before giving this car any more power I wanted to ensure it can put that power down efficiently. So now that I knew where to start a friend recommended I get in contact with BMR Suspension and luckily I live local enough to pay them a visit, but before driving out I decided to at least call ahead. The call went a little something like this; Me: "Hi I'm looking to replace and upgrade my entire suspension system." BMR: "What's the year Model of your car?" Me: "1992 Camaro RS, I want parts now can I come get them?" BMR: "You live local, we've been looking for a 3rd Gen F-Body to test some new products on, is your car stock, clean and good shape?" Me: "Sounds awesome yea the car is in great shape, when can I come by!?" Afterwards I raced to my car and I was off to BMR.

SUSPENSION:
ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT & UPGRADE STATUS: Shocks - Upgrade Complete! / Springs - Upgrade Complete! / Sway Bars  - Upgrade Complete! / Torque Arm - Upgrade Complete! / Rear Lower Control Arms - Upgrade Complete! / Panhard Bar - Upgrade Complete! / Sub-Frame Connectors - Upgrade Complete! / A-Arms - Upgrade Complete!
UPGRADE: Shocks - Koni Yellows Sport On-Car-Adjustable / Springs: BMR Lowering Springs / Sway Bars: BMR Custom Setup with Stabilizer Bar / Panhard Bar - Watts Linkage (Instead of traditional Panhard Bar) / Sub-Frame Connectors: BMR Bolt to rear weld in front (stock exhaust delete) / A-Arms - BMR with spring cup.
DESIRED RESULT: With a lower ride height, overall stiffer suspension and a controlled rear live axle car will better handle corners and power
ESTIMATED COST: $1.5k to $2.5k / SPENT: $2.5k
AFTER THOUGHTS: Still testing more to follow, highly recommend BMR! When Engine Swap starts will likely be moving to a Coilover setup.
ADDITIONAL UPGRADE: Shocks & Springs - Viking Coilovers with Road Course Damping / A-Arms - BMR with no spring cup / K-Member - BMR K-Member using 98-02 Camaro engine mount brackets and K-Member did require modification to clear A/C Compressor / Crossmember - BMR T56 Swap Crossmember highly modified to work with TR6060
LINKS: BMR 3rd Gen Page http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&vehicleid=5&superpro=0

In this video I visit BMR and get a hook up with Springs to test them out.

WHEELS / TIRES:

ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT & UPGRADE STATUS: Wheels - Stock 16" x 7.5" with 2mm offset 5 x 120.65 Lug Pattern M12 x 1.5  / Tires - BF Goodrich Traction T/A 235-55-R16 - Upgrade Complete!
UPGRADE: Wheels -  IROC Replica Wheels 18'" x 8" with 0mm offset 5 x 120.65 Lug Pattern M12 x 1.5 / Tires - Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R 255-40-ZR18
DESIRED RESULT: More tire patch on the pavement and enhanced sporty look.
ESTIMATED COST: $1.5k to $2k / SPENT: $1.6k
AFTER THOUGHT: Will be looking to send in wheels to Weldcraft Wheels to make them wider.
ADDITIONAL UPGRADE: (IN THE WORKS) Wheels - Custom IROC Replica Wheels by US Mags FRONT 18”x9.5” with -25mm offset 5 x 120.65 Lug Pattern M12 x 20 - REAR 18”x11” with -6mm offset 5 x 120.65 Lug Pattern M12 x 1.5 / Tires BF Goodrich FRONT 275-35-ZR18 - REAR 315-30-ZR18
LINKS: SRQ Speed & Performance https://srqspeedandperformance.com/

In this video see what performance tires have to offer.

In this next video below the Camaro returns to the FIRM with some new parts. This was before installation of Torque Arm, Rear Lower Control Arms, and Watts Link. 

In this next video below same FIRM event as above a little fun Grudge Racing 1/8 miles featuring the Fastest Car at Event VS Slowest Car at Event, rest assured THE CAMARO CHIMERA WILL HAVE ITS REVENGE!

In this next video below the Camaro takes passengers and goes out for its first AutoX with complete suspension! The lack of brakes and 75% power going to that Right Rear Wheel is becoming more evident. 

DIFFERENTIAL:

ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT & UPGRADE STATUS: Open Differential 3.08 Gears
UPGRADE: Moser GM 12 Bolt 3.73 Gears - Upgrade Complete
DESIRED RESULT: No more one wheel tire burnouts and ready to handle more power when engine is upgraded, also more predictable while powering out of turns.
ESTIMATED COST: $3.3k to $3.8k / SPENT: $3.5k
AFTER THOUGHT: Moser needs to add adjustable lower control arm connections standard so you don't have to mess with relocation brackets. I specifically built this over the phone to avoid future headaches but they never mentioned to me that this was an option and it is not on their online build sheet. Also their placement of vent hole on the driver side axle tube is frustrating as it leaks everywhere, I have the watt-link setup and it covers the vent hole so I can't install a vent tube there, but instead I installed one on the rear end cap attaching a tube to the fill hole, and plugging the vent on the axle tube. This has been the best method so far.

BRAKES:
ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT & UPGRADE STATUS: Rotors - 10.5" discs Front & 9.5" x 2.375" drums Rear / Calipers & Pads - Stock
UPGRADE: Rotors - 12" discs Front & 11" discs Rear Wilwood Forged Dynalite Drilled Rotors / Calipers - 4 Piston Red Calipers with Wilwood Pads - Upgrade Complete
DESIRED RESULT: Better reliable braking to withstand track use, and quicker stopping in tight autocross events.
ESTIMATED COST: $2k to $2.5k / SPENT: $1.9k
AFTER THOUGHT: If I had the extra money would have went with 6 piston up front mostly for looks...mostly. "Also will probably need Willwood Booster and Master Cylinder as it feels brakes are being applied unevenly on very hard braking right front seems to always be the first to lock up." Discovered why the statement in "quotations" was an issue, turns out the shop did not install them 100% tight, all in the details see the video below titled Best way to bleed Wilwood Brakes. Will still be getting new booster, master cylinder, and stainless steel brake lines complete probably during engine swap time. 

In this video a recap of everything complete in the first year. Also some of the issues that need to be addressed so the car can truly be race ready again.

Nothing worse then when your car isn't working. After attending Pro Solo National Event I came to the conclusion I'm not letting anyone touch my car again. 

Had to redo some little (big) things mostly brake and rear end related.

Once it got to working again as it should a celebration was in order.

When you tell him PEDAL TO THE METAL at 3..2..1..GO but you hit it at 1, he was not amused.

COMING UP NEXT:

Winter is coming! Decided I will keep my racing season between October to May when the Florida weather isn't HELLA HOT. An alignment update and some new camera equipment, the Soloshot 3!

After plenty of do it yourself car projects, one literally broke this camels back and although a setback on money that could have been spent on car parts, this will totally pay off later with easier time installing fun parts and regular maintenance!

The list is getting shorter, so that's good! When you look at it this way seems like a piece of cake right? More to follow as soon as anything changes!

ENGINE / TRANSMISSION:
ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT & UPGRADE STATUS: L03 5.0 V8 - 170 bhp @ 4000 rpm and 255 lb-ft @ 2400 rpm / T-5 5-Speed Manual Gear Ratio 1st 2.95, 2nd 1.94, 3rd 1.34, 4th 1.00, 5th 0.62 Final 3.08
UPGRADE: LSA 6.2L V8 - 580 bhp @ 6000 rpm and 556 lb-ft @ 4200 rpm / TR-6060 6-Speed Manual  1st 2.66, 2nd 1.78, 3rd 1.30, 4th 1.00, 5th 0.80, 6th 0.63 Final 3.73
DESIRED RESULT: Sleeper "old" Camaro that will surprise just about every car it rolls up to at a red light ;) also to intensify mullet growth.
ESTIMATED COST: $12k to $17k

Most of the heavy modding was in progress in the next Vlog below that LSA with TR6060 really is THE STICK OF TRUTH!

INTERIOR / EXTERIOR
ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT & UPGRADE STATUS:
Interior - In great condition very little work required if any / Exterior - Very good for its age some work required to be showroom worthy
COMPLETED: Interior - Replaced broken A/C vent / Exterior - Removed rear window louvers
TO DO / WISH LIST: Interior - Upgrade to digital (analog) instrument cluster (Will wait on Engine Swap to determine needs) Recaro Seats front and back from 5th Gen ZL1
Exterior - Replace front lights & signal lights, replace grille with Z28 style, add fog lights, replace hood or custom hood to accommodate LSA, respray entire car same color with painted stripes instead of stickers, possibly add fender flares for more tire patch.
More details to come, desired 100% completion date December 19th 2019. Realistically probably wont be 100% till 2020 because I wont to drive it to work out all the mechanical kinks before making it pretty. Projected Completion Est Cost $55k, idea is to keep cost as close as possible to what the 5th Gen ZL1 was when it was new.

Follow me at mo_spectroracing for pictures of the latest updates on my cars, and others!

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2016 Shelby GT350

Mike's Shelby GT350 mostly stock, here are some of the tasteful modifications followed by the details from Ford!

Modifications:

• UPR Catch Can (Driver & Passenger Side)

• Schroth QuickFit Harness (for Autocross)

• Vorshlag Camber Plates w/ OEM Perches

• Ford Performance Lowering Springs

• Shifteck X-Pipe & Resonator Delete

• Steeda IRS Braces

• Steeda Jacking Rails

• DSC Sport Magnetic Ride Controller

• Signature Wheel SV101 Brushed Bronze

• SpeedKore CF Splitter & Spoiler

• Ford Performance F&R Tow Hooks

• Diode Dynamics Smoked Rear Reflectors

• Diode Dynamics 4th Brake Light Switchback

• Caliperfexion Brembo Brake Studs

• Brake Duct Completion Kit

• SRP Racing Pedals

• Shelby GT350 Floor Mats

Details from Ford:

• Powertrain
The heart and soul of this beast lives in the 5.2L V8 engine with a flat-plane crank that produces 526 horsepower. It's bolted to a world-class TREMEC® 3160 6-speed manual transmission and you have a car that delivers 429 lb.-ft. of torque.

• Chassis and suspension
The MagneRide™ Damping System monitors and adjusts itself thousands of times per second for a dynamic, adrenaline-fueled driving experience. But with our obsession for detail, we just couldn’t stop there. Our attention to detail drove us all the way down to which way the springs coiled; therefore, requiring new lower control arms. This racer was designed, engineered and built so the springs, sway bars and dampers work together as one finely tuned system. We also added new lightweight chassis components and a set of Michelin® Pilot® Super Sport tires wrapped around lightweight, yet incredibly stiff, aluminum wheels. So yeah, the Shelby GT350® delivers a special rush when you get behind the wheel.

• Braking
The foundation of any sports car is undoubtedly the brakes; therefore, brakes are a major part of the GT350 magic. So we teamed up front and rear Brembo® calipers with cross-drilled, two-piece, highly-engineered brake rotors. The huge 394mm (15.5”) rotors up front and 380mm (14.9”) rotors in the back complete this tight, hardworking system that gives GT350 its well-earned track cred.

• Aerodynamics
Balancing downforce while minimizing aerodynamic drag is always one of the biggest challenges a team of car designers can face. But Ford did it with a unique, detailed approach that centered on making it imperative that every single component play a major part in the total overall performance of the system. It’s a very hard thing to pull off, but our team of designers and engineers wouldn’t settle for less. So it’s not just that the GT350 has wide aluminum front fenders and a unique aluminum hood. It’s also that the front and rear fascias, splitter, rockers and rear valance with integrated diffuser all work together as a team – each and every one of them.
What truly sets this Beast apart is that the Shelby GT350® isn’t just a combination of “go fast” parts – any tuner can build one of those. The GT350 is a specifically engineered machine, where the components work dynamically together as one and perform to a world-class level on all fronts, as well as meeting Ford durability standards. It’s all due to the focus of the Ford Performance Engineers to make a car that delivers thrills like this, yet still possess everyday driveability. Quite simply, the GT350 was engineered so you will say – from the race track to winding back roads, the GT350 can do it all.

2011 Alpha 7 Nissan GT-R

Our 2011 Alpha 7 Package Nissan GT-R That we WON from the great folks at Speed Society!

Build info

Coming soon

At Willow Springs with Speed Society!

Vlog 2-28-16: A GT350 is joining the Spectro Racing Garage and more!

Mike buys a 2016 Shelby GT 350 (we are all super jealous), Scott buys a high performance car from the 90s and Mo continues to work on his Camaro. Lot of cool stuff coming up. FIRM on 3/13/16 and big upgrades to the Mustang. Stay tuned! Subscribe!

Mike buys a 2016 Shelby GT 350 (we are all super jealous), Scott buys a high performance car from the 90s and Mo continues to work on his Camaro. Lot of cool stuff coming up. FIRM on 3/13/16 and big upgrades to the Mustang. Stay tuned!

What Is Double Clutching?

What is double clutching? Why should you double clutch? How does double clutching work? Is double clutching necessary? Double clutching is useful for transmissions which do not have synchronizers. It is not necessary if a car has synchronizers. The driving technique of double clutching is applicable to manual transmissions.

Engineering Explained has a great video on Double Clutching. What is double clutching? Why should you double clutch? How does double clutching work? Is double clutching necessary? Double clutching is useful for transmissions which do not have synchronizers. It is not necessary if a car has synchronizers. The driving technique of double clutching is applicable to manual transmissions.